Southampton is a city of contrasts. A two-hour drive from London, this coastal city in the south of England is divided between history and modernity. Only a few steps separate the castle ruins to the LED paneled shopping centre.
Although it is best remembered for its port – which was a pier for the ill-fated voyage of the Titanic and now docks luxury cruise ships – Southampton still has a great deal of history: a medieval wall, the second longest in the UK, that cuts through the city and houses some quirky establishments, such as the Pig in the Wall Hotel.
At various points in the city you can reach and walk on the top of the wall, accessed by metal ladders or sometimes by stone steps that are part of its original structure.
Walls, towers and a hotel
The first records of the construction of Southampton’s wall date back to 1180, with many expansions and renovations in the following centuries.
In its expanse, the most noticeable is the imposing Bargate, once the main gate for access into the city and which was intentionally designed to scare off outsiders. Today, it serves as a pedestrian crossing, where you can see Burger King on one side and a coffee shop on the other.
Walking through the historic old town centre, in the alleys near the Church of St. Michael the Archangel, our guide Jack Wilson is straightforward.
If you see any kind of new construction, it’s because it’s a bombed-out area.
It refers to the French invasion in 1338, which destroyed many buildings and forced the English to hasten the construction of the walls. Namely in one of the recesses in the imposing wall is The Pig in the Wall, literally within the wall and next to the Westgate, which was the western entrance for those arriving in the village at that time.
Part of a chain of hotels and restaurants, this The Pig has twelve rooms and its rustic decor, which can transport us momentarily to the English country lifestyle: stuffed animals, low-lit, rustic furniture with dark wood textures.
Although it’s not centrally located, a brisk walk can take you to the historic center – after all, you’re already inside the wall – or to the main shopping streets.
Order dial telephones, antique door latches, antique faucets, leather armchairs, Victorian mirrors and aged woods throughout the furniture. Vintage lovers can spend hours observing the details in the decoration of the rooms or the lounge, where breakfast is served.
Due to its location between the center and the port, it could be a strategic stop for an overnight stay in the Middle Ages for those awaiting their cruise.
* The journalist traveled at the invitation of Visit Britain
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